'Come to a city where you will feel at home.' This is the call put out by the Tourism Organisation of Belgrade on its website, but one that potential visitors to Serbia's capital may feel is rather exaggerated, given the city's reputation as one of the most turbulent European cities. The history of Belgrade, originally known as Singidunum, goes back 6,000 years; the tales of conflicts and devastation it has experienced in all that time would fill many tomes. Belgrade, however, always bounces back and is currently lifting itself up and shaking itself off amid the scars of its most recent conflagration, when NATO forces bombed the city for 78 days in 1999.

Belgrade (or Beograd in Serbian) is situated in a strategic spot of south-eastern Europe where the Sava and Danube rivers join on the Balkan Peninsula. It is not a pretty city, but rather one layered with the relics of its many generations and invaders, resulting in a conglomeration of architecture and cultures, which have somehow melded together to imbue the modern city with its own unique charm. From the pile of rubble, which is all that remains of the bombed-out former military headquarters on Kneza Milosa, to the techno wildness of its famed nightclubs beneath the Kalemegdan Citadel, Belgrade tells many stories and offers dozens of experiences.

The best place to begin understanding the city is on the site of its original ancient settlement, the hill called Kalemegdan, now a fascinating park-like complex of historic buildings above the Old Town (Stari Grad). The Military Museum situated here traces the history of the city's bloody past, from its first conflict with the Roman Legions in the 1st century BC, to an exhibit of parts of a United States Stealth Bomber, shot down in the 1999 air raids.

Those who choose to ignore history and enjoy Belgrade as it is today will find a myriad of leisure and pleasure opportunities, all offered by the incredibly hospitable inhabitants who are justly proud of this indomitable city.

Passport/Visa Note: All visitors require a valid passport. Visitors may be requested to show a return or onward ticket, documents for the next destination and sufficient funds in hard currency to finance their stay. Visitors entering with tourist visas must also have hotel vouchers. Anyone staying longer than three days must register via a hotel or sponsor. Note: Entry to Serbia via Pristina Airport, Kosovo, has a different set of requirements, which visitors to Kosovo must check before travelling. It is highly recommended that passports have at least six months validity remaining after your intended date of departure from your travel destination. Immigration officials often apply different rules to those stated by travel agents and official sources.

Travel Health: Serbia, in particular Kosovo, suffers from a shortage of medicines and essentials, and there are several health risks for travellers. Recommended vaccinations for visitors to Serbia are Hepatitis A and typhoid (except for very short-term visitors who restrict their meals to major restaurants and hotels). A reciprocal health care agreement entitles British nationals to free emergency treatment in Serbia, but comprehensive travel health insurance is strongly recommended for all visitors because of the insufficient and under-funded medical facilities. Cases of rabid foxes and dogs have been reported in parks and the outskirts of major cities, and bird flu has been identified in the Sombor area of north-eastern Serbia. Tap water and unbottled beverages should not be consumed, and food should be well prepared and well cooked. In the countryside precautions should be taken against tick infestation.

Tipping: Tipping is not obligatory in Serbian restaurants, but if you are satisfied with the service then leave a 10 to 15% tip. At bars and with taxis leave a tip by rounding off the amount.

Safety Information: Politically, Serbia is relatively stable after years of violent civil/ethnic strife, but it is still advisable to avoid all public gatherings and demonstrations. Those travelling to the south and UN-administered Kosovo are advised to check the local situation before departing. Kosovo declared independence from Serbia in February 2008, a move that has been recognised by almost 40 countries including the US and most of the EU, but has been opposed by Serbia as an 'illegal act'. Street crime is common in the larger cities so it is wise to take sensible precautions with valuables.

Local Customs: It is inadvisable to take photographs of any military or police buildings or operations in Serbia or Kosovo. Homosexuality is tolerated but open displays of affection between same-sex couples are frowned upon. Visitors should carry their passports at all times for identification purposes.